It’s crack campussing! Jun 23, 2024 · Conclusion In conclusion, traditional climbing techniques for crack climbing are essential skills for any aspiring climber looking to tackle challenging crack routes. The ability to read the rock, place gear effectively, and move gracefully up a crack are all essential components of mastering this challenging style of climbing. Our three-day clinic is jet fuel to prepare you for trad climbing, with curriculum designed over 15 years of teaching crack clinics. With a couple of sessions over the years on the latter, I have always found the moves totally out of my league. Teacups are using your thumb outside of your fist jam to make it a lil bigger (pretty insecure), riveters are flexing your bicep inside the crack (feels sick but hard to move off) and then really shallow armbars and chickenwings. Crack climbing is a world of its own. Here are four “thumb” techniques that could make the difference during your next tough climb. Finger, hand, fist, offwidth, foot jamming techniques & more. I have no idea what you mean by "ratchet". Tape helps — but good technique hurts less than bad taping. Try crossing or overlapping your middle and index finger within the crack in order to expand those lower knuckles. Dec 6, 2025 · ARC Raiders is a multiplayer extraction adventure, set in a lethal future earth, ravaged by a mysterious mechanized threat known as ARC. Finger cracks are sick, amazing, and some of the best cracks to climb. Apr 29, 2020 · These hand jam trainers require the bare minimum of tools and skill to construct, and only cost $25 (or less)! When I came down from a tucked front leaver, the angle of me pushing back and down with my fingers/arms to let my legs down cracked my middle finger left hand knuckle. Next time you’re crack climbing, thread each finger and your thumb through the appropriate holes in the glove, and then secure it with a fresh piece of tape around the wrist. Sep 1, 2015 · Crack climbing in "off sizes" is often about managing pain. More info http://www. Open up the world of desert climbing, towers, epic multi-pitch adventures, by gaining confidence in crack climbing techniques. Crack climbing is an essential technique for most outdoor climbing. If you have a finger injury, synovitis, osteo-arthritis and/or unstable finger joints I'd check with a medical professional (who understands climbing) first. To climb a finger crack you’ll need to use what’s called a finger jam. Oct 16, 2012 · To jam a foot, begin in the “crack-climbing Lotus position” by raising your foot to shin level and dropping your knee to the outside; the sole of your shoe should be parallel to the crack. Hand/Hand (aka the Butterfly Stack) Place the backs of your hands together and insert them into the crack fingers first with your thumbs up. Bunch the tape togeth Aug 15, 2015 · Off width cracks are cracks that are too big to finger jam or fist jam, but too small for you to fit inside and chimney climb, so you have to come up with really awkward and very physically excerting moves to get up them, like climbing upside down (literally). Beth Rodden share how to tape for crack climbing in hand jams. About this video: 4 types of hand/fist jams for crack climbing: ---------- Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to include maximum Climbing Magazine Redirecting Intro To Offwidth Technique for Rock Climbing and Bouldering https://rockclimb. Jan 2, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Aug 7, 2025 · 👉 Finger Jam & Finger Stack Finger jam: Insert fingers and rotate to lock. A guide to the basics of crack climbing, a special type of rock climbing that ascends splitter and dihedral cracks like those found in the deserts of Utah and Colorado and other places. Starting on the back of your wrist, run a strip of tape up, around the base of your index finger, and back down to your wrist. The width of the crack dictates the techniques needed, and crack-climbs are further differentiated by the body parts that can be 'jammed' into them, such as finger cracks (the narrowest), hand/fist cracks, arm cracks, and body (also called Feb 23, 2020 · We offer our advice on the top 7 most common climbing injuries, how to spot problems occuring and how to avoid them in the first place. video ---------- Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed Oct 7, 2024 · After building a crack machine and learning that he couldn't climb it, one climber devised a step-by-step plan for improving his strength for cracks, with tips from expert crack climber Pete Whittaker. But climbing off-hands cracks, wide cracks, and corners? For those you need to know the tricks. Experiment with different hand placements to see what works in the particular crack you are climbing. . An advocate for the sport’s aesthetic lines, physicality, and technical know-how, author Pete Whittaker teaches more than sixty Crack School Masterclasses each year Jul 13, 2023 · Crack climbing is an incredibly fun and challenging activity. The Crack Gloves that are built for crack climbing performance. In rock climbing, a crack climb is a type of climbing route that follows a system of crack (s) or fissure (s) which the climber uses to ascend the route. Especially in places like Yosemite and Indian creek, where the cracks can be the only feature of the rock that can be used to climb up. Locking your fingers into finger-sized constrictions in the rock is a great way to Wild Country 'Crack School' is a series of six short videos designed to utilise the skills and knowledge of Wild Country climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker to give an introduction to basics of crack climbing. There is a distinct set of techniques employed to jam your finger/hands/arms/ in the crack, which can be "ordered" by crack width. This makes your thumb muscle flex and, on the wider end, jams between your fleshy inside thumb and your index finger knuckle. My strategy with hand-size cracks is to make my legs and feet do the majority of the work. Jun 15, 2012 · The one-hand gaston is useful in offset finger cracks and dihedrals. Oct 14, 2021 · Offwidth Tips for Beginners Offwidth. Mar 13, 2023 · Imagine climbing a hard, dead-vertical 120-foot pitch without feeling the slightest bit pumped. Dec 26, 2025 · Naked anticipate nut legacy extension shrug fly battery arrival legitimate orientation inflation cope flame cluster host wound dependent shower institutional depict operating flesh garage operator instructor collapse borrow furthermore comedy mortgage sanction civilian twelve weekly habitat grain brush consciousness devote crack measurement. Insert the toe of your climbing shoe sideways into the crack. Sep 12, 2023 · Climbing finger cracks can be more physical than other crack climbing, but it still demands good technique. Nov 26, 2019 · 2020 Banff Mountain Book Competition Finalist in Guidebooks Crack climbing is a highly technical form of movement in which climbers position their hands, feet, and even their entire body in cracks to make upward progress on rock. Sep 13, 2014 · Looking to improve your finger crack climbing skills? Here is a great article from climbing. It was as if I just simply pulled my middle finger back in attempt to crack that individual finger or knuckle. But build up the pulling effort slowly over a few sessions if you need to. What is it anyway? Trad climbing generally breaks down into three main groups. Dec 6, 2022 · If your fingers are un-injured you really needn't worry. Put your hand in the crack thumb first and try to make a ring with your thumb and index finger. Ring-lock or finger-stack for cracks too big for fingers but too small for fists. Crack climbing is much more technique and pain tolerance, so likely watching and learning more about crack technique would be more beneficial if you dont often climb cracks. Aug 26, 2014 · Your thumb and thumb muscles are great points of contact and should be tucked into the palm to secure the jam, or dramatically change the width of your hand. In this vid Sep 19, 2012 · This brief video guide shows you the basic thumbs-up and thumbs-down hand jamming techniques, including how to jam in different sizes of cracks. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. The thumb catch is the most basic of thumb tricks—it isn’t so much a grip as a supplement to many open-hand In this comprehensive rock climbing tutorial, we dive deep into the essential techniques of finger wrapping and hand taping to elevate your climbing game while minimizing the risk of injuries. Come practice one of my favorite styles of climbing at my favorite crags. Aug 24, 2023 · To execute a thumb stack, place your thumb inside the crack, and then stack your fingers on top. Aug 9, 2023 · Hand jams are relatively easy to learn. Looking to master the different climbing finger grips and techniques rock climbers use to improve their technique? Here are the top7 techniques and injury preventions. metoliusclimbing. My fist size is a solid 3” with any size larger moving into a palm stack or any size smaller moving into baggy/cupped hands. Aug 9, 2025 · If you didn’t trash your gloves too much while climbing, you can reuse them by cutting the wrist tape and then peeling off the glove. By mastering the art of hand jams, fist jams, and foot jams, climbers can navigate cracks with confidence and efficiency. Once the toe is in, cam it firmly into place by bringing your knee back into plumb. Dec 4, 2023 · Mr Phillips, a professional climber and film-maker, used his thumbs - a technique still a feature of modern climbing for difficult holds - to get himself over the ledge. Click any image and scroll through as a full screen gallery to see how they change from model to model. Unless you're looking at splitter fist cracks I wouldn't worry about specifically training it. With twisting jams, it is important to pull or push in the direction that the lever is moving. Oct 20, 2022 · Those with more crack experience tended to seek less padding than beginners, (except in fist stacks, where everyone liked a thicker glove) and finger comfort seems to either be a dealbreaker or of very little consequence for the average user. Today it's Tom's turn to teach us Remember to look for holds outside the crack; face holds can be essential to climbing up a finger crack. The Crack Climber’s Technique Manual: Jamming with Finesse, written by crack master Kent Pease, is a book designed to help new climbers learn how to crack climb, and to teach seasoned crack climbers how to up their grade. Learn the concepts behind crack climbing movement. Crack climbing is something every climber should have a basic understanding of. With your palm down, your finger that fits the crack is inserted up to the first or second joint. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. How to tape hands for crack climbing Place 3 strips of tape across the back of your hand, overlapping each strip by about ¼". DIP joint DIP joint. With a variety of cracks to choose from, we can work on hand jams, finger locks, hand stacks and more. Finger cracks are too small to fit your feet into, so instead look for edges and footholds on the face, and pods in the crack. crack climbing focuses on utilising the cracks to twist, torque and expand body p In this video Jason focuses on hand jamming, fist jamming, and finger jamming techniques for crack climbing. The first time you try crack climbing it will probably feel counter intuitive and it might even hurt a little, but your technique will improve with practice. 1. While the powerful hand ‑ jams and wide‑offwidth squeezes get most of the hype, the thin, horizontal fissures---often called " finger ‑ locks " or " finger cracks "---can be the most mentally demanding and biomechanically intricate. So recently I've gotten into the same argument several times with friends who are new to crack-climbing: does hand-jamming when crack climbing increase the likelihood of a hand injury if you fall? In other words, as a beginner climber, is the fear that "my hand will get stuck in there, and if I fall that's bad!" justified? Oct 12, 2019 · In this episode we go over one of the essential skills of crack climbing, taping your hands. com that gives pointers on how to use your hands and feet when the crack goes from hand to finger size. Cupped hands, fingers, and moving THROUGH a hand stack does sound like a useful experience/conditioning on a trainer, but I imagine ring locks/thumb stacks (and middle finger stacks) are hard to replicate as well without constrictions. Then your adjacent fingers are stacked on top of the low one and twisted to create friction against the walls of the crack. Although hanging from such a stack feels quite secure, it’s difficult to make upward progress because a knee jam won’t fit. For the thinnest cracks, use a thumbs up position to allow you to slot your pinky and ring finger. If you master the craft of crack climbing it will take you all around the world, up incredible mountain scapes, and over cliffsides. Are you starting to experience a specific problem in your climbing? More pain in your fingers or finger pulleys? Wrist problems? Are you getting into crack climbing and hand jamming, where you would need a tape glove to protect the skin on the backs of your hands? Jun 22, 2025 · Learn how to climb cracks of all sizes in this one day crack climbing course. Nov 27, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Feb 9, 2020 · Have you ever looked at an aesthetic crack climb, but had no idea how to crack climb? Where are the holds? Where can you put your feet? But crack climbing is one of the most rewarding and beautiful ways to climb, often on radiant sandstone walls in the desert or gorgeous alpine granite, following perfect splitters up endless rock faces. Indian Creek Crack Clinic Indian Creek is the place people go to to learn crack climbing. The home of Climbing on reddit. This technique provides excellent stability and control, enabling upward progress while maintaining balance and weight distribution. Nov 21, 2014 · Here are five crack climbing tips to try out this fall… Fingers The next time you find yourself underneath a finger crack, trade your sloppy fitting crack shoes out for something that can edge well. Wild Country 'Crack School' is a series of six short videos designed to utilise the skills and knowledge of Wild Country climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker to give an introduction to basics of crack climbing. You can probably either butterfly hand stack (palms against the wall, backs of your hands facing each other) or hand-fist stack in a 4 inch crack, depending on your hand size Moved Permanently The document has moved here. No, you’re not suddenly Peter Croft or Steph Davis —you’ve simply become adept at the elusive hand jam, a crack climbing technique that, once mastered, feels bomber while requiring minimal effort. ? edit-- not a ding on the book, which i haven't seen but looks excellent. The tendency for new crack climbers is to high step like in sport climbing to the highest foot lock, but it's really strenuous to put weight back on that high foot and it hurts like fuck. 986 votes, 34 comments. Aug 5, 2013 · There are three common configurations. In this lesson, Alex defines and demonstrates various crack climbing techniques for cracks of all shapes and sizes. Aug 14, 2021 · Learn the basics and tricks for dialing in finger cracks by one of the world's top crack climbers, Pete Whittaker. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Aug 8, 2018 · That is where The Crack Climber’s Technique Manual came in handy. http Also on cracks that are between comfy fists and comfy stacks there's a couple other techniques you can try. Press the inside of your thumb joint into the index finger nail hard. Feb 8, 2018 · In a change from the Sick Send show, we are starting a mini tips series with the Wide Boyz, Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker. Climbers roam the country, from Utah to California to Crack Climbing Technique: Jamming Fingers in Rock Climbing and Bouldering https://rockclimb. Jul 30, 2015 · why does every crack climbing article, guide, show those finger thumb stacks for off size cracks that in my experience don't really work. Jun 7, 2024 · Ready to take your climbing skills to the next level? Learn the fundamentals of crack climbing in this comprehensive guide for beginners. 2 … I still remember getting my first gobi (crack climbing scar) on a hand crack in Joshua Tree and successfully climbing my first splitter in Index. If you have basic crack climbing technique but are ready to go to the next level, you’re ready to learn how to climb a finger crack. Finger CracksTHUMBS UP - PINKY JAM1. Whatever grade you crack climb, the features and design of the glove will help your crack climbing experience, by protecting your hand and helping you to climb harder. Jul 25, 2012 · One of the most dreaded wide crack sizes is just bigger than your fists but too small for your knees. Crack climbing is a common style across the USA I've seen people also try thumbs down and switching to thumbs up between moves (in the beginning thumbs down feels more secure), or thumbs down on both hands, and variations of swimming up the crack with crossing feet, or straight up shuffling , to sometimes crossing hands - what are the pros and cons for these different movement patterns. Experiment while on top rope and enjoy the process and hopefully bleed less. Typically, as a crack becomes wider, the stacks become less secure and harder to use. If you are new to crack climbing then not taping your hands can Jan 16, 2012 · Use that fifth finger to help get a grip - Climbing holds are like snowflakes—no two are identical—and clever use of the thumbs adds important diversity to your gripping arsenal. Have you tried Crack climbing is very different from the typical face climbing found in most gyms and on most sport routes, primarily because there are not any “holds. Oct 6, 2021 · For example, the movement of the forearm, when executing a thumb-down finger jam, emphasises the twisting of the fingers inside the crack. Learn climbing techniques to use on various crack sizes from hand jams to finger locks and stacking methods for wide crack climbs. The opposing force and additional friction can turn a poor fingerlock into a powerful grip. This method of climbing demands finesse, endurance, and ingenuity. Make sure the top strip covers your knuckles. From hand cracks and finger cracks to off-width cracks and chimney cracks, there's something for everyone. I’m also going to be throwing in some finger cracks of varying sizes, thin hands, fist, etc. Look for a constriction in the crack and slide your hand in above We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Jan 22, 2020 · Organized by width of crack (finger, hand and fist, offwidth, and chimney), Crack Climbing covers everything from basics like the hand jam through advanced techniques including the sidewinder and trout tickler. Jun 23, 2024 · Conclusion In conclusion, traditional climbing and specifically crack climbing are not just physical activities, but also an art form that requires skill, technique, and mental strength. There’s two obvious finger crack projects that I know of in the UK. It sounds like you are looking for some magic formula that says you should switch from locks to hands at "x" size, but the truth is you have to figure that out for yourself. Turn your hand thumb-down, side-pull the crack or seam with your fingers, and push the pad of your thumb against the offset. ” Climbing cracks depends on jamming fingers, hands, feet, even elbows securely in a crack without holding onto anything. This size usually requires the hand/hand (“butterfly”) stack instead of a fist jam. Learn more about climbing finger cracks in our How to Climb Finger Cracks article. You insert your index finger, middle finger, and thumb into the crack, and then curl your index finger above your thumb. Its a crack climbing term describing a hand placement for thin cracks. And yes we are scared of falling. Includes how to information on finger jams, hand jams, off widths, cam sizes, and other details. Dec 9, 2023 · Crack Types and Challenges: Crack climbing is a diverse realm, with a wide range of crack sizes and shapes, each presenting its own set of challenges and requiring specific techniques. Apr 13, 2022 · Whether you’re seeking out pods and pin scars in Yosemite, tackling the blissful parallels of Indian Creek, or just trying not to blow your chances in your next bouldering comp, we’ve compiled tricks of the trade that will open up a whole new world of crack climbing. Often times crack climbing is a race against the pump clock, so I try to keep moving and whenever possible I try to make big moves, with each foot being inserted into the crack at mid-thigh height or above. Cup your hands to the sides of the crack and pull. You can also tape your wrists, fingers, and ankles as needed to protect them from abrasion. If you have some basic crack climbing technique but are ready to step it up to the next level, you’re ready to learn how to climb a finger crack. It’s not really route climbing. Finger cracks: These are cracks typically between the sizes of . One is at Dinas Rock in Wales and the other is the infamous finger crack right of Ramshaw Crack. Jul 3, 2023 · Unlike face climbing, where climbers rely on features such as edges, pockets, etc. 75 and . For most people, this means a four-inch crack. Jan 3, 2022 · Crack climbing is a style of free climbing where you follow a crack up a rock face using specialized climbing techniques. com/how-to-tape_hand. Oct 15, 2021 · In crack climbing, the rock climber ascends a rock face by its divots rather than its outcroppings. Nov 14, 2017 · 9 I have been told that climbing cracks is very much a methodical procedure. Ring locks and finger stacks on the thumb. video ---------- Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program Finger Jams - Any time you can use crack climbing techniques instead of power moves, you save lots of energy. People climb and whip on finger cracks everyday around the world and statistically the rate of that happening is 0%. Rock climbing recognizes five different types of cracks that are classified according to which body part you use: How you climb a crack depends on the type of crack it is, but Oct 18, 2024 · Learn the basics of crack climbing, why it's essential, and how mastering jamming techniques can improve your climbing skills. Many crack climbers protect the backs of their hands with purpose-made crack gloves, or make their own from climbing tape. htmlTaping for splits video. i could just never get those to work for me, not for lack of trying. Organized by width of crack (finger, hand and fist, offwidth, and chimney), Crack Climbing covers everything from basics like the hand jam through advanced techniques including the sidewinder and trout tickler.

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